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Mast and Rig:
- Main sail: The main sail is a full roach, full batten, 6 oz. Dacron sail with single line slab reefing set up with 3 reefing points.
- Jib: Rather than the typical roller furling headsail, Manta uses a full batten hanked-on 90% jib. A jib downhaul line leads aft to the portside rail to help drop the jib into lazy jacks. This jib design is unconventional compared to the typical furled head sails but it does make for a bullet-proof sail design. There are no jib sheets as typical on an overlapping genoa with roller furling and tacking is incredibly simple.
- Manta is one of the few boats that uses a camber spar. This is essentially a curved boom inserted through a sleeve above the foot of the jib. It’s similar to the Hoyt jib boom for its self-tacking qualities and eliminating flogging, but it goes a step further; The camber spar maintains an induced camber & stable draft so you can sail more efficiently when reaching or running. Wing-on wing downwind sailing is an ease. In winds above 20 knots the jib is much safer and controllable than a conventional roller furled overlapping genoa head sail.
- We have a 1.5 oz. Nylon UPS reaching spinnaker set on a Facnor continuous line furler that is most optimum for sailing between 90 degrees -140 degrees in apparent wind up to 10-12 Kts.
- There is an emergency parallel switch at the helm that momentarily parallels the 2 engine starting batteries to the house batteries if any one battery is low.
- A Wells battery combiner combines any battery voltage charge from any of the 3 sources of charging – engine alternators, solar panels, battery charger (110V power from either shore power or generator). If house battery voltage drops below 12.6V the starter batteries are automatically disconnected from the combiner to retain their charge.
- Other misc. installed electrical equipment: AC/ Generator transfer switch, Yachtguard lightning and surge suppressors, ProMariner 60amp galvanic isolator.
- We have two separate reverse cycle air conditioners on board for either cooling or heat. Both are Cruise-Air / Dometic units. A 16000BTU unit for the salon and both forward portions of both hulls. A 12000BTU unit for both aft staterooms. The air conditioners and the raw water coolant pump operate on 110V AC so we have to be either plugged into shore power or use the 110V diesel generator. We've never used it while swinging on an anchor pointing into the wind as there is typically enough breeze to keep us cool without need for any air conditioner.
- Sharp Aquos 20” flat screen TV. Glomax TV antenna atop masthead
- Media Player with 1TB external Hardrive for downloaded movies
- The TV compartment behind the flat screen TV has been adapted to house the Clarion DVD changer, Media Player, DVD player, Digital/ analog TV converter, Printer/scanner, 12 volt RF remote controller. The Digital Antenna cellular repeater amp is also located in this compartment.
- Perko LED Running lights and Orca Green combo LED Tri-color / PV controlled anchor light.
- Interior and cockpit lighting are Taylorbrite CCD fluorescent fixtures that consume 0.5 Ah per fixture.
- Hella LED spot lighting for berth and galley stove top task lighting.
- 7 Hella turbo fans throughout the boat provide ventilation while only consuming 1/10th of an Amp hr / fan.
- Maxwell 1200 vertical windlass with combo chain/ rode capstan drive.
- ACR search light with remote helm control.
- Ditch bag with EPIRB, portable VHF radio, portable GPS, 1st aid kits.
- Inflatable PFD’s with harnesses
- Rigging wire cutters
- 2 10lb Halon fire extinguishers
- Fog horn / hailer on VHF radio
- What looks like a metal brush atop the mast is a Forespar static dissipator. It’s supposed to reduce the build-up of static ground charge and retard the formation of the ion “streamers” which complete the path for a lightning strike.
- 1st, the bridge deck clearance (height of underside of boat above water between the hulls) is not best at about 24” and we'll get our share of wave slap. But again, hard to increase clearance in a cat of our size range. Thankfully, the shallow clearance is more to the aft with ample clearance forward between the bows. Also, the rounded hull underside helps minimize the wave slap. It's a design trade-off because to increase bridge deck clearance you would have to either raise the deck heights correspondingly which will then increase windage, or alternatively, you would have to lower the interior headroom (which is already at 6’3”). There's no perfect solution.